
Bolton Evening News, Friday, August 25, 2000
By David Healey
Gilles menu is a thing of rare beauty
In the barren frontier between Whalley Range and Bolton, in an old car accessories shop (which people still phone looking for Volvo parts), a young Italian/English couple have bravely staked a culinary claim.
Palmiro is the first venture for Venetian Stefano Bagnoli, a former restaurant manager, and his wife Julie who retrained as a chef to help out in the kitchen. Behind frosted glass windows that shut out an uninspiring view, Palmiros modest dining room is given a feeling of space by simple stucco walls and blood-red panelling. Visible at the back of the room is chef Gilles Nigaud, merrily cooking away in a manner, which befits the Manchester pedigree he earned at Air and Malmaison. I was enchanted to find that despite his unusual T-shirts, his menu (that changes monthly) is a thing of rare beauty and delight.
A plateful of Rib-eye steak, its juices running over equally meaty slices of field mushrooms and sweet baked onions, was ridiculously good.
Go while there are still some tables left (Palmiro, 197 Upper Chorlton Street, Manchester. Tel 0161 860 7330.)
Back
|
|