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Manchester Life
, Wednesday April 5, 2000, by Helen Duff

New Italian restaurant Palmiro is setting new style standards in Whalley Range by offering an irresistible menu of outstanding quality

Rome on the range

Heading off for an evening meal, you might reasonably expect to come home feeling sated and weighed but not, you’d think, energised to change your life. New Whalley Range restaurant Palmiro has existence-altering capacities, however – everything from its faultless food to its ergonomic-cool interior to its eminently-thievable cutlery to the (stop me if I’m gushing) cut of the host’s trousers is effortlessly, covetably stylish. You’ll either be so enamoured by modern Italian living that you’ll hop on the first plane to Milan, or so convinced of your own comparative boorishness that you’ll run out and throw yourself under an 86 bus. I’m exaggerating. But not much.

Arriving at the nine-table restaurant, we initially mistook the bowl of rock salt on our table for complimentary cocaine: Having put away our meal, we couldn’t have felt much smugger if it had been. Starters of mushroom bruschetta with melted taleggio (delicious thanks) and salt cod baked in milk (exquisite apparently) were polished off in no time. Our secondi of chicken with aubergine, zucchini and sun-dried tomato, and brick-sized wedges of tuna and polenta, went down just as well (and came with olives so juicy that this reviewer – who normally would die by fire than eat one – almost developed a taste for the oily critters). The panetonne bread and butter pudding was a marvel of dough-based cuisine, while the no-flour chocolate torte with vanilla sauce was met with such rapture, and scoffed with such speed, that its eater spent the next two hours in a state of post-euphoria desolation. A medium-sized selection of European wines were available, but we opted for Peroni, one of two Italian lagers on offer – bringing the tally to £50.

The decision to site the restaurant in that band of the city referred to by optimistic estate agents as ‘Chorlton border’ might seem an odd one – Whalley Range being the fish and chips to its fashionable neighbour’s turbot and crostini – but according to the restaurant’s owners (the Venetian – Mancunian partnership of husband and wife Julie and Stefano Bagnoli) the location is no mistake. Having recruited chef Gilles Nigaud (previously of Malmaison and Air) and spent five months converting the former car accessory shop before opening to the public ten days ago, Julie is confident that Palmiro (‘Its an Italian Christian name, like Stan or Albert’) will more than hold its own. ‘We’re bringing in a lot of stuff they’re doing in Italy – using new ingredients. In Britain, Italian cuisine seems to have stagnated into spaghetti Bolognese: Ours is a rustic menu with classic flourishes. We’ve had a couple of full houses already. I think the neighbourhood needed a restaurant.’

With a monthly-changing menu and a family-focused Sunday brunch menu, Palmiro looks set to rejuvenate Manchester’s Italian cuisine. And without a breadstick in sight.

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197 Upper Chorlton Road, Manchester M16 0BH | (0161) 860 7330 | bookings@palmiro.net